Saray has large breasts. I don't mean this in any kind of chauvanist
way or as offence to her or her boyfriend, but it is important, and I
am going somewhere with this.
Tofinho (toe-feen-yo) is not just a surf spot, it also has a secluded
beach tucked between rock formations at the foot of the long and tall
coastal dunes. A few local fishermen are also always there. they're
friendly and are usually standing trouserless in kneedeep water among
the rocks and reef, lines cast and steadily reeling. It is an easy
At the top of the dune and past a bit of bush there is one dirt road.
It leads South to nowhere in particular and North to Tofo, some half a
kilometer away. At any given time of day there are a number of
construction workers (and I use the term lightly - if they weren't
pushing wheelbarrows or handling block you'd think they were just guys
hanging out near the beach), women selling fruits or bread and the odd
tourist walking about.
The afternoon before we left Tofo Saray came back from Tofinho holding
a pair of headphones connected only to their own severed wire. She
said that she had just been robbed, robbed by a man in yellow pants.
Saray's story goes like this: She was lying on her stomach in her
bikini bottoms listening to music from her walkman in her bag, reading
a book and enjoying the sun. She said she couldn't have been more
relaxed. Then the man in yellow pants grabbed her bag. She happened to
catch the wire from her headphones and a brief tug of war took place
before the wire broke and the man began to run. Saray gave chase in
all her 5'10" Spanish glory shouting and cursing on the man's heels.
The pursuit lasted down the beach and up the 30 meter dune. At the top
she had fallen too far behind the man in yellow pants and so began
waving and shouting for help from a man who appeared to be kneeling in
the bush. He looked at her in a mix of surprise and confusion, then
another head popped up. Saray had one of those moments, the kind where
the action has gone cold and you realize just the ridiculous nature of
where you now stand. Slightly embarassed she covered herself with one
arm. The man in the bush quickly understood the situation, said that
he had seen the man in yellow pants, gathered his trousers about his
waist and began run after him. The woman also stood, gathering
herself, and asked Saray if she was ok.
I can only imagine what those fisherman were thinking.
12th May 2008, 14:16
Nicola the Italian showed up for our last two weeks in Tofo. His English
was terrible. And by terrible I also mean hilarious.
The first shot is him cutting 'Ã¼nions', "de goggles, ehhhhh theya gooda"
the second is him making a spear/gaff with a rusty piece of rebar, a
broomstick, some kite string, and a bread knife. "ehhhh yes I-a go-a
weet de boyes ehhhhh in-a de morning ehhhhh to catch a feesh-a"
Incidentally we ended up hitch hiking south together for a few weeks
after the 4x4 fiasco. (more on that later)
18th Apr 2008, 15:50
Max and I played a lot of Backgammon in Tofo, Mozambique. In the
beginning it was thought that one must be at least 80 in order to
play. This, as it turned out, was false. And the game, as it turned
out, was incredibly addictive.
As exciting as this isn't, I think it really gives an idea as to what
life was like out there. The first shot is me rolling those magic
double sixes to win the game when Max had all but had it clinched. The
second is, once again, of the Backgammon gods smiling down on me with
the double sixes. And just for kicks, they gave Max exactly what he
needed to win, but one roll too late.
And in the interest of telling the whole story, I must say that Max
came out the winner of our weeks long tourny at 13 to 9. A fairly
decisive victory I would say.
18th Apr 2008, 15:37
This spot catches cyclone swell very nicely and actually has a very
mellow second section. A really fun big wave, the only trouble is
getting in the water; you must wait for a lull between sets before
running across the reef and jumping in.
My friend Max wore booties for which I made fun of him mercilessly. He
said it was because in January a wave slid him across the reef on his
way out and gave him a deep cut to his foot that took seven weeks to
Ok, but I'm a rockstar... invincible.
My first day I creased my board. My second day I slid on the reef.
I stood up, hadn't really slid far and figured I was ok. I looked at
my hand, flesh was dangling from a deep gouge in my palm and my wrist
was excoriated. Then I felt the hole in my baggies. Beneath it I found
a two inch gash across my left buttock. Then I saw more flesh hanging
from another gouge between the heel and arch of my foot. Mild shock is
the best way to describe it. followed by anger at the fact that the
cut on my foot is going to seriously affect my surfing. In response,
Max only pointed at my fins and said in his German accent: "Your
My right fin was completely sideways with the plug showing
through the top of the board. Nice. And I just had the crease fixed.
18th Apr 2008, 15:22
Pulsing ripples, wave machine
Shaking silhouetted surface scene
She's looking out her guarded cove
At brick and mortar, peacefully
Hosting plays of lightning breeze
Lit flick'ring, movements in the show
9th Mar 2008, 12:00
I have to leave South Africa for a bit because my visa is expiring.
Mozambique is a good option I think, save all that malaria.
9th Mar 2008, 11:50
The time between five and eight in the morning is the best part of the day.
9th Mar 2008, 11:47
While out trying to clear my head, and having a terrible session, the
wind caught my surfboard and delivered it straight to my face as I
came up to the surface.
9th Mar 2008, 11:41